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BY INDECISIVE


A JHOL STUBBS PAINTING OF ECLIPSE
     Eclipse won all his races by some distance which made his jockey remark "Eclipse first, the rest nowhere." He was a fiery chestnut with a white face right hind leg. Sired by Marske out of a Regulus mare called Spiletta, he was bred by the HRH Duke of Cumberland at his Cranbourne Lodge Stud. He was foaled during the total eclipse of 1764, and his temprament was known to be highly-strung and boisterous. Eclipse was the only racehorse to carry 12 stone in weight and be unbeaten in all of his handicaps. In fact throughout his racing career the stallion was unbeaten, before being retired to stud in 1770. It was not uncommon for him to win his races by 10-20 furlongs. In those days flat races were much further than they are on modernrace-tracks. Eventually his owner retired him to stud because of the lack of competition. Eclipse died of colic is 1789 at 25 years old. At the time of his death, he had become such a well-known racehorse and sire that it warranted a search of his body and skeleton to find out as much as possible.
     Eclipse’s decendants are around 80% of the thoroughbred racehorses including Kauto Star and Desert Orchid. Scientists have examined Hermit’s origins by taking a sample of DNA from one of eclipses teeth to see if hermit is a decendant of eclipse. This research will help to decode the genetic information of great racehorses.
     Research carried out by scientists from the royal vetinary college and the university of cambridge, is helping to figure out the gentic origins of the thoroughbred racing stock worldwide. The research is also helping to find the answer to why Eclipse was such a great undefeated champion of 18th century.
     Tests have also been carried out on 1867 Derby winner, Hermit. Equine science aims to understand what makes horses able to catch diseases easier and are more likely to break down during training. Research shows that by tracing the lines of modern day racehorses you will find very small groups of animals that were imported from the Near East and North africa in the early 18th century.

BONE STRUCTURE OF ECLIPSE
     The work of the RVC is to further discover which genetic traits have been inherited through the 30 or more generations since the foundation stock. Experts have used CT scans of Eclipse’s skeleton and reports of his races to create computer models of his structure. Using portraits researchers have been able to reconstruct one of his legs and have discovered that his legendary speed was due to his overly average’ body. A successfull racehorse must not only be quick footed but also very avaerage. For a racehorse to be very fast it needs the ability to bring its legs forward quickly, which is difficult for the larger horses with longer legs. Eclipse was smaller than the modern racehorse and was therefore more average in the breed’s range giving him his incredible speed.
     A horses leg may be refered to as a pogo stick because it uses stored energy in the muscles and tendons to propel the animal forwards and upwards. Research has shown that horses with stiffer legs restrict how quickly they can transmit the force to the ground and bounce back up again, therefore reducing the speed in which the animal can move. Stiffness in the leg also makes the animal more prone to injury.
     The tests that were conducted by the structure and motion labratory answers questions about the movement of many other animals and further research may lead to the knowledge to design robots with more stability which will help us with understanding how dinosaurs walked.


BY HORSE-FROG-PICKLE

     VirtualPups is a large multi-player game. It involves strategy, and you choose how you play the game. There are many assets to VP, such as breeding, training, trading (buying/selling dogs), competing, gambling, as well as a large friendly community. The community plays a huge role in the game, you will continually interact with other players whether it be your competing against them, you sell or buy a dog to them, or even having a conversation with them.
     With the forums and the chat it makes it easy to interact and have a great time meeting some new friends. This amazing game has endless possibilities of how to play. Some players choose to strive to improve the stars and the stats on a certain breed, while others choose to find the perfect show dog.
     Sponsor kennels then assist you to become extremely successful, (Not that you can't be successful as a novice, a free account.) And there are many sponsor types, which would include: Training, Rescue, Breeding, Prestige and Boarding. Sponsor accounts are $25 USD (United States Currency) and last one whole year, giving you many perks.
     With an upgraded account, some of the features include: Unlimited turns, unlimited breeding, up to 10 additional novice accounts, an unlimited number of dogs, 20 unmade imports, and you may host 4 events a day.
     Other goodies you could purchase with USD are; Custom Dyes for $9.00 (You get to choose the color of your dog), 20 unmade import dogs $6 (These are dogs with no lineage that you can choose the breed and gender of, although your account must be upgraded to order these), and lastly you can create your very own breed of your choice! This is is a bit more pricey, costing $95 USD and $50 of this transaction is donated to an animal shelter called Life Long Friends: http://www.lifelongfriends.org/.
     With over 200 breeds of dogs to choose from, your experience on VirtualPups is entirely up to you, you can work toward goals all the time continuously improving along with having a great time!


BY DRAGONWINGS

     Like everyone else, there are times when I need to do laundry. I hate doing laundry. I'm known for washing all of my bras and undies at once, and then spending an hour unraveling the undie ball that I remove from the dryer. The dryer is also known for housing Matinga Boobert, the overlord of the dryer who steals my socks. I could put a single sock in the dryer, and by the time its done drying the sock will be gone.
     Well, my couch cover had had an unfortunate incident with a bowl of spilt pea soup, so I decided to just do all of my stuff at the laundromat, because it would be easier. Its a big couch cover.
     SO I loaded everything in the Blazer, and off I went.
     Got to the place, which was actually a really nice one, well lit, nice people. Started 3 loads; the couch cover and some sheets, a load of jeans 7 t shirts, and a load of socks, undies, you know, the normal things one washes.
     I was reading my Robyn Young book, so as soon as everything was done I swapped it over, and kept reading.
     Nothing exciting.
     When the stuff was dry I went out to my car to get another laundry bag thingie, and went back inside.
     Took out the cover and sheets, got them folded, talked to a cute lil old lady who was telling be about how she grows the prettiest roses. Went through, folded jeans and t shirts, put them in the hamper. Artfully dodged a kid pushing a laundry cart around the place.
     Then I opened up the 3rd dryer, grabbed the socks and a bra out....and stopped.
     Where the hell were my underwear?!?!?!?!
     I closed the dryer door and opened it again, thinking they would magically appear. But nothing.
     So I looked around, and asked the little old rose lady if anyone had gotten anything out of the dryer, and she said she hadnt seen anyone...and she had been right there so she would have known.
     7-10 pairs of underwear...gone.
     Now, I know what you're thinking. Dragon, you're a flake, you prolly didnt even bring any to wash.
     No. I did. Because one of the pairs had Jack Skellington on them, and when I tossed them in the wash I started singing, "Whats this? Whats this? There's laundry everywhere...whats this, theres panties in the air, whats this, I cant believe my eyes, I must be dreaming, wake up Draggy this isnt fair!" until the owner of the place gave me a look. Aparrently laundrymat owners are not musical people.
     My NBC undies with Jack's smiling face on the toosh. My tic tac toe boy cuts. My yellow thong with flamingos on it. Gone. My Cheshire cat striped ones, my Oscar the Grouch bikinis. They were all gone.
     Gone.
     Now, I wont even allow myself to think about the type of person who steals someones underwear. But still. Why MY underwear. Maybe they were Disney fans or loved Sesame Street. WHo knows.
     I just remember dragging my laundry bag into my car, a remorseful tear in my eye as I tried to remember where I ordered my Oscar the Grouch undies from.
     Somewhere, the rival of Matinga Boobert is relishing their victory and dancing around in my chonies.
     I will get my revenge!


DRAGON WE THINK THE BUNNIES DID IT



BY KHOLRAN

PHOTO BY CARLEY & ART

     The Easter season brings with it certain symbols: brightly colored eggs, baskets full of chocolate, fluffy yellow chicks, and, perhaps the most recognizable, the rabbit. For some, bringing home a real rabbit for the kids on Easter morning is a temptation too hard to resist. As with any pet, however, some important decisions need to be made before a cute fluffy bunny is added to the family. They are neither easy nor ‘throw away’ pets as many believe, and they can be quite expensive and time consuming. What other misconceptions might there be?
Despite the fact that rabbits have been domesticated for well over 1,000 years, behavior, needs, and proper care were not sufficiently studied until quite recently. As a result, much of the information that does exist, both in print and out there on the internet, is outdated and on occasion downright inaccurate. So what, then, is a rabbit owner to do when it comes to basic care? Luckily, the rabbit is starting to gain equal footing with dogs and cats as a household pet, and accurate information is much easier to find.

Rabbit Basics
     Rabbits belong to the scientific Order of animals known as Lagomorphs, and are not rodents as many people believe. Close rabbit relatives include hares and pikas. While they do bear resemblance to rodents, lagomorphs can be recognized by their distinct second set of incisors (sometimes called peg teeth) on the top jaw. Rabbits are herbivores, and can, with proper care, live for an average of 8-12 years. They range in size from Dwarves to Flemish Giants, with the smaller breeds being much more energetic, and each individual has his or her own distinct personality.


SMALL CAGE IS FINE AS LONG AS THERE IS PLEANTY OF EXCERSIZE
(if you leave the door open however make sure to pad it)

Housing
     Housing is perhaps one of the largest debates when it comes to proper rabbit care. Many rabbit owners are content to leave them as outdoor pets, while others would never consider it. On average, outdoor rabbits do have a shorter lifespan. Being prey animals, they are very easily stressed, and are highly susceptible to changes in temperature. Predators pose the largest risk to a rabbit housed outdoors. Coyotes, raccoons, owls, hawks, cats, and dogs are only some of the animals that pose a threat to a rabbit- and because of their very acute senses of hearing and smell, a caged rabbit can stress itself to death without ever laying eyes on the predator. Many rabbits also suffer physically and behaviorally from lack of socialization, handling, and exercise. Risk from parasites and disease is greatly increased outdoors, and given that rabbits often hide symptoms of illness, by the time their owners realize there is a problem, it is often too late.


ANOTHER GREAT EXAMPLE OF A INEXPENSIVE AND EASY TO PUT-TOGETHER CAGE

     Whether the rabbit lives indoors or out, it is likely that they will need to spend time in a cage. There are many types of cages available, however not all cages marketed to rabbits are really appropriate for them. Size does matter! When it comes to rabbit cages, the bigger the cage, the happier the rabbit will be. At the very least, the cage needs to be four times the size of the rabbit, which means that a dwarf rabbit is going to be able to inhabit a much smaller cage than a giant. Flooring is another very important aspect of a rabbit’s environment. Because rabbits lack paw pads like cats or dogs, they
should never ever be kept in a cage with a wire floor. Wire flooring is the leading cause of ulcerative pododermatitis, also known as “bumble foot”, which creates painful and sometimes crippling sores on the feet. Be cautious to avoid dusty floor materials, though. Pine shavings, cedar, and kitty litter are three commonly used items that should be avoided at all costs. Not only are these items dusty and irritating to the eyes and nose, they can prove toxic if ingested.


WOODEN CAGES REQUIRE LOTS OF MATIENCE, AND THEY ABSORB ODERS AS WELL AS URINE

Diet

     Perhaps the most important aspect of rabbit ownership is what to feed the rabbit. Popular culture has created the image of the rabbit eating carrots, while pet stores promote a pellet diet. It might surprise owners to know that neither one is an appropriate diet. The most vital part of a pet rabbit’s diet is roughage. They should have constant access to a good quality Timothy or Grass hay (Alfalfa, while good for newly weaned babies, is too high in calcium for an adult rabbit and can create bladder crystals). Like horses, a rabbit’s gut needs to be in constant motion, or the risk of blockage or bacterial infection is greatly increased. Store-bought pellets can supplement the diet and provide necessary fats and proteins, but should never make up the majority of it. The average rabbit (5-7 lbs) should be fed no more than ¼ cup of pellets per day. Use caution with the type of pellets as well- many companies will mix brightly colored bits and pieces into the pellet diet, which do nothing but add unnecessary sugar to the rabbit’s body. A good pellet should be high in fiber and lacking in any additives.
     Along with hay and limited pellets, fresh vegetables are an important part of any rabbit’s diet. Dark, leafy greens, such as parsley, romaine lettuce, and collard greens are best, and while moderation is key with any veggies high in sugar (like carrots), a rabbit should get at least two or three different greens per day to vary the diet.

Other Concerns
     While where to keep the rabbit and what to feed it are two of the most important things to consider, there are many other factors that contribute to whether or not a rabbit is right for the family. Indoor or outdoor, a rabbit should be given a bare minimum of 2-3 hours of exercise out of the cage daily. In an extremely busy household, this necessary activity may be too time consuming. Preparing to let the rabbit exercise can be equally as time consuming. Rabbits are born chewers and diggers, and therefore their environments must be absolutely free of any harmful items (such as cords and wires) as well as anything an owner might not want to have chewed (baseboards, carpet edges, sofa corners, chairs and piano legs to name a few). Another thing to keep in mind is that rabbits can be messy. With a bit of time and patience, a pet rabbit can be trained to use a litter box- however in most cases “litter trained” translates to “urinates in the box consistently”. Because rabbits are constantly eating, they are also constantly dropping pellets, and cannot be expected to place every single one in the litter box, regardless of training. Finally there is the potential problem of finding a suitable (and qualified!) vet. Due to the lack of sufficient information regarding rabbit physiology, many veterinary programs provide vets far less training with rabbits than with cats or dogs. As a result, while most small animal vets will see a rabbit, an exotics vet or rabbit specialist is a much better choice for both routine care and emergency medical services. Like cats or dogs, rabbits do need to see a veterinarian at least once a year. While they do not get vaccinations in most places, routine checkups are a vital part of ensuring a long and healthy life for the rabbit.


LACK OF PADDING AND SPACE TO MOVE IS DESTRUCTIVE TO THE ANIMAL BOTH MENTALLY AND PHYSICALLY

     Despite the common misconceptions that rabbits are simple, short-term pets that require very little in the way of care, they are quite complex animals. Each individual is different, much as each cat or dog is different. There are lap rabbits and aloof rabbits, lazy rabbits and hyperactive rabbits. They make excellent household companions for those willing to put in the time to care for them properly. This Easter, make an informed decision. If a 10 year commitment is too much, then stick to rabbits that are either plush or made out of chocolate.
     Please visit http://rabbit.org for additional care tips, and support http://www.makeminechocolate.org this Easter! 

BY BRITTSY
     Calling all virtualpups citizens! I, Brittsy, am here to teach you (yes you!) the ropes of responsible breeding on the oh-so-famous virtualpups site. This step-by-step guide will surely help you get started on your career as a reputable breeder.

Step One – Always have the end in Mind
     As the title states, you should always have the end in mind. And what exactly do I mean by this so very knowledgeable declaration, you ask?
     You should have a good idea beforehand of what you wish to accomplish. There are four popular, standard goals when breeding that you should be familiar with.
     Stars: The breeding of canines to raise the stars to x4 beside each of the ten characteristics on the main page.
     Showing Benefits: The breeding of canines that hold specific stats to enhance the number displayed next to a certain characteristic.
     Profit: To purchase a pair of current highest-starred dogs, or several stars below, of a particular breed. These canines are bred to one another after being 280/200 trained to increase the chances of high-starred offspring. The good-quality litter is sold to the public for a decent price.
     Lines for Stars: To create a personal bloodline by acquiring 8 or more “Imports” (Parentless Canines) from a sponsor player. Each pair should be marked as (Insert-Name-Here) A, B, C, ect. The trained dogs that have the same letter are bred to one another, and one of each gender is kept, named, trained and bred.

Step Two – So many choices, but what to choose?
     After selecting one of the four customary goals, it is time to choose which breed you will be specializing in. I agree, it is easy to say “I like Border Collies! Let’s breed em’!” but that is not always the case. Remember to reflect on step one. Ask yourself these simple questions that will definitely help you in the long run.
     What is my main goal? - Stars, Showing Benefits, Profit, Lines?
     Which Group do I wish to work in? - Herding, Hound, Working, Terrier, Sporting, Non-Sporting, Toy, Feral?
     Do I have a sufficient amount of money to do this? - Keep in mind, Lines (from scratch) cost around 10-15 million dollars, the price rising mostly for Toy breeds & dogs with exceptionally low stats. Breeding for Showing Benefits may also become expensive if you choose to work with a less common breed. How hard do I want to work? (Low, Moderate, High) - Dogs with low Average Stars (2 - ) will take much more time to train and breed, especially if you are starting a bloodline specifically for stars. Mixed bloodlines may also be hard to work with if the dogs are of a rarer breed.
     How popular is the potential breed? - Visit the considered breed’s main page to view the population number. Check out the number of “For Sale” and “For Stud” dogs, which will give you an idea of the breed’s VP fame.

Step Three – Do this, do that…are you listening?
     Training plays a huge part in your ability to produce better dogs and rack in the cash. But if your precious pooches aren’t trained correctly, your money could drop drastically.
     Herding – Discipline 100, Working 100, Sporting 80, Stats to 200, no aggression.
     Working – Discipline 100, Working 100, Sporting 80, Stats to 200 w/ Aggression
     Hound – Discipline 100, Working 100, Sporting 80, Stats to 200, Agg. Optional
     Terrier – Discipline 100, -choose depending on field you wish to show in-
     Sporting – Discipline 100, Sporting 100, Working 80, Stats to 200, Aggression Optional
     Non-Sporting – Discipline 100, Show 100, Work/Sport 80, Stats 200, Aggression Optional
     Toy – Discipline 100, --choose depending on field you wish to show in-
     Feral – Discipline 100, Working 100, Sport 80, Stats to 200 w/ Aggression
     These are the preferred training styles; however you might just find your dog successful in other ways. When working on Lines for Stars, many do not train their dog 280, as it will not be used for eventing. Nevertheless, stats are brought to 200, aggression 250, and groomed until a few years before death.
     I hope this training guide aided in you in one way or another. =D
Peace out,
Brittsy <333

BY JNFERRIGNO
     The last two months has had the canine community buzzing, eager to know who and what the first dog would be. History shows us that a single dog has the potential to make or break a presidential candidate. That said, a President also has the capability of making or breaking a breed.
     While it is said that Fala, the black Scottish Terrier of President Franklin D. Roosevelt, secured him a fourth term in office; Roosevelt inadvertedly quadrupled the popularity of the breed. Just the same, in the 90’s Clinton made the Chocolate Labrador popular, and now as a result Lab supporters try to avoid breeding these dogs due to the negative health effects triggered by their growing demand. Richard Nixon is said to have destroyed the Cocker Spaniel overnight. The proof of Nixon’s influence can be seen in the top 10 most aggressive dog breeds list. Cocker Spaniels often suffer from a genetic disorder known as rage syndrome, which causes them not only to attack strangers but turn on their family members. Lyndon B. Johnson loved all three of his Beagles; however they now are one of the most common breeds found in rescue shelters.

"LABRADOODLE" BY STEPHEN WITHERDEN
     It never fails, that after announcing the next Presidential dog, breeders must then contend with the influx of demand for said breed. For breeds with such a limited gene pool in North America, like the Portuguese Water Dog the Obama’s are said to be rescuing in the spring, this spot-light effect can have severe consequences. President Obama announced that there were a few things to consider before finally choosing.
     The main thing to consider was his daughter’s

PORTUGUESE WATER DOG BY HALLOW INDUSTRIES

 allergies, which for that there are no true hypo-allergic dog breeds. Celebrities, Breeders, and the AKC, have all been pushing various hairless and curly coated types, but President Obama made a comment to the press that he wished to adopt a mutt from a shelter, which then created a huge amount of public support. However when their final selection came down to either a designer breed like the Labradoodle, or the recognized Portuguese Water Dog, Obama’s wife favored the later.
     The problem here is that it is extremely rare for there to be any PWD’s to rescue, especially at the puppy age. Portuguese Water Dog’s are not that common in North America, and as a result almost always lead out the rest of their lives with their original family. Due to the families’ decision against a mutt and the decreasing chance of a shelter animal finding a good home, the once supportive community has now taken a turn toward disappointment.
     “The gene pool is so small that the next thing you know you have unscrupulous breeders that can ruin the breed,” says Lesley-Ray Karnes, during an interview by the Dog Channel. Karnes is one of the top retriever trainers in the U.S. and has worked with these dogs before, “They’re wonderful dogs, but there aren’t many of them.” Portuguese Water Dog lovers are worried that the PWD will be added to the list of breeds ruined by the Presidential spot light. Others say if it isn’t the PWD it will be another breed. The media is pressing for a final decision, but what matters is that the Obama’s find a dog which suits their family, "This has been tougher than finding a commerce secretary,'' Obama noted.
     


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